Houses of Interest: North Yorkshire

For more Yorkshire 'related stuff' you can find West Yorkshire here, South Yorkshire here, and East Riding here.

For sites of interest in York, and the Marston Moor battlefield see here; Skipton Castle see here, and Knaresborough Castle here.

All Saints Church in Ripley (Harrogate way, not the one in Derbyshire) was used by the Parliamentarians as a billet for their soldiers who were pursuing fleeing Royalists from Marston Moor. A number were captured and executed against the walls of the church which still bears the scars of musket balls. Inside the Church they added graffiti  "no pompe nor pride let God be honoured" to the tomb of Sir William Ingilby (1546-1618).

Interestingly Sir William's children are both claimed to have fought at Marston Moor: Sir William (junior) was a Royalist cavalry officer, and his sister Jane is supposed to have disguised herself as a man wearing full armour in order to take the field.

After the Battle Sir William (jr.) hid in Ripley Castle's priest hole when Cromwell's men came looking for him; Cromwell asked to stay the night, Jane agreed on the condition that his men slept in the barn and she could keep two loaded pistols at her side. For this, Jane became known as 'trooper Jane'. Private guided tours of the castle are available.

Photo of a Victorian print of Jane keeping guard over Cromwell in the Castle's library

(from Sheroes of History blog)

There are many 'local fables' about the Civil Wars, usually involving Cromwell allegedly visiting places that he never actually visited or doing something that never happened or someone else very definitely did. One only has to look around at the prevalence of landmarks prefaced with "Oliver's". Most of these stories, and names, stem from a Victorian desire to cover the unsavoury bits of merry olde English history with a broad brush of romanticism. Sadly the story of trooper Jane might just fall into this category.

The story of both Sir William and Jane is a little problematical: Sir William does not appear in the Indignant Officer lists (as having served in the Royalist Army) as one would expect. Nor does he appear in any officer lists for any of the regiments that make up the Marston Moor Royalist order of battle. That does not necessarily negate his presence at Marston Moor as many of the regimental lists are incomplete, however his absence from Indignant Officers does place a large question mark on whether he was a serving officer in the King's Army.

Jane wearing full armour to fight at Marston Moor: whilst vaguely plausible, this has more than a whiff of  Victorian embellishment about it - serving troopers had long ditched full armour because it was too heavy to wear into battle, suitable horses to carry the extra weight were thin on the ground as they had already been taken for service in the war, where did she find a suit of armour that fitted her? A buff coat and helmet would serve equally to mask her identity. There are a handful of well documented cases of women who donned men's attire to fight as soldiers, but these are heavily outweighed by rumours and fiction.

The keeping guard over Cromwell with a brace of pistols part of the story, whilst seemingly far fetched, might just be the truthful part of the story. I wonder if even the Victorians might think that is an embellishment too far.

But no evidence appears to exist other than the Victorian retelling of the tale, so we will probably never know how much of the tale is true (if any), and how much is Victorian fabrication. 

St John the Baptist Church, in Knaresborough houses the Slingsby Chapel. There are a number of interesting tombs and memorials including that of Sir William Slingsby, Commissary of the Fleet, who died in 1638 (or 1634 depending upon source material). Sir William's effigy is depicted in clothing typical of the time (1638). 

More relevant for the ECW aficionado is the tomb of his nephew, Sir Henry Slingsby, 1st baronet. Sir Henry was appointed colonel of York's city militia in 1638. Slingsby would fight in the First Bishops' War, and be one of the first MPs to swear loyalty to Charles in 1642. When Henrietta-Maria landed at Bridlington with a large consignment of arms, Slingsby accompanied her escort to Oxford before he returned to York. Sir Henry and his regiment did not fight at Marston Moor, as they stayed behind to garrison the city. Sir Henry soldiered on, after the surrender of York, eventually surrendering himself at Newark. His memoirs provide a good insight into the wars.

He would continue fighting and plotting for the monarchy possibly having a hand in the Penruddock Rising; and, possibly less likely, being a member of the Sealed Knot. He would be imprisoned in Hull, before being moved to the Tower of London where he was executed for treason. 

Holy Trinity Church has some interesting stained glass, including an image of King Charles The Martyr.

On the 7th December 1642 Sir Thomas Fairfax attempted to hold Tadcaster bridge from a far superior Royalist force. Artillery was placed upon the remains of Tadcaster Castle motte, earthworks were erected along the river bank and the town's buildings set alight. The Royalist forces were too strong and Fairfax's men withdrew to Selby under cover of darkness. Black Tom unsuccessfully attempted to retake the town a few months later. 

Tadcaster Castle's motte

One of the few buildings to survive the fire of the first assault,
 the extension is a modern addition

The remains of the castle's motte are located behind the church (an ideal place to park); the earthworks along the river bank are modern flood protection measures.

The 14th Century Cawood Castle, was initially held by the Royalists. Originally garrisoned for the King, the castle was captured by the younger John Hotham (governor of Hull's eldest son) for Parliament. The Earl of Newcastle briefly recaptured it for the Royalists in 1644, before Lord Fairfax retook it for Parliament and used it as a prisoner of war camp. After the Wars the Castle would be sleighted, with only a handful of farm buildings and the gatehouse remaining. The gatehouse is now holiday cottages, run by the Landmarks Trust.

Cawood Castle Gatehouse

Bolton Castle near Leyburn, was sanctuary for those Royalists fleeing Marston Moor. Governor John Scrope held the Castle during a six month siege, and the garrison surrendered (they'd literally eaten everything, and were starved into surrender). Parliamentary forces would garrison the castle for two years before Parliament ordered it to be sleighted. 

Bolton Castle

Stunning views of the Dales from the Castle rooftop

What's there now? Impressive ruins house an excellent café, shop and a few rooms dressed to give an impression of how the state rooms would have looked. Famous for being one of Mary Queen of Scots prisons, she reputedly learned to speak English here.

There are a number of interesting (!) reproduction items of armour on the walls.

More interesting is the central courtyard, which has raised lines of cobbles - believed to be the footings of animal pens established prior to the 1644 siege.

Exactly what Buttercrambe Castle was, is unknown – an early motte and bailey earthen defence, or a timber structure, or a bit of both? It was utilised as part of Royalist York’s outer defences, protecting the bridge crossing the Derwent. Whatever remains of the castle, and Civil War earthworks is confusing due to extensive landscaping. No public access to the site, and the site is now heavily wooded.

Burton Fleming Manor

Burton Fleming is famous for demonstrating the Yorkshire economy of language, consisting of two streets prosaically called Front Street, and Back Street. 

However, it does actually have a real claim to fame: after her successful landing, and survival, at Bridlington Queen Henrietta Maria stayed at Burton Fleming Manor on the 5th March 1643. The building looks very non-descript belying its place in history.

Crayke Castle

Crayke Castle was a former Bishop’s Palace, it was held by the Royalists. It is believed that the Scots Covenanter Army besieged the Castle briefly as two cannon balls were found in the grounds. The castle would not have lasted long in a siege as it didn't have a water source.

Sometime around the date of Marston Moor the garrison abandoned the castle. Parliament’s men briefly held the site, but Parliament decreed that it should not be garrisoned, slighted the site, and sold what remained to Sir William Allinson. 

The Castle is private property and there is no public access, which the current owners make abundantly clear with their signage.

Old Malton was garrisoned for the King, but Sir Hugh Cholmley (in his parliamentarian phase) quickly routed the garrison in the winter of 1642. No evidence of the encounter remains in the town.

Upsall Castle was a derelict castle site during the seventeenth century, what remained was added to creating a strong earthwork defence which was garrisoned by the Royalists as part of the outer defences of York. Any trace of the castle, or earthworks has been lost under the site of the current farm.

Middleham Castle

Middleham Castle was garrisoned for the king, the garrison evacuated the castle shortly before Marston Moor. Parliament ordered it to be slighted, but there is no record of this order having been carried out. It's dilapidated state being the result of age, nature, gravity and dodgy builders.

Middleham would be garrisoned for Parliament in the 1650s; in 1652 Edward Loftus petitioned for recompense for holding and fortifying the castle at a cost of £2,000. In 1655, Colonel Robert Lilburne governed the castle with a garrison of 30 men. Royalist prisoners were also held at the castle. Managed by English Heritage, expect over priced fudge and wooden swords in the gift shop.

Helmsley Castle

Another English Heritage property is Helmsley Castle. Helmsley was garrisoned for the King from 1642 by Sir Jordan Crosland. The garrison was untroubled until Sir Thomas Fairfax arrived with 700 foot and 300 horse to besiege the castle in June 1644. 

By early November Crosland’s position was untenable: a relief force from Knaresborough had been intercepted, and food was running scarce. 

He had no other option than to surrender.

That the souldyers shall marhc out with their Armes loaden, matches lighted, colours flying, and drums beating

They also left with 200 men, 300 muskets and pike, nine pieces of ordinance, six barrels of powder, much money and plate. Forty of the garrison would defect to Parliament.

The articles of surrender of Helmsley

Casualties during the siege were almost non-existent, Helmsley Parish Register records just one death. 

Most notable amongst the wounded was Black Tom himself, who took a musket ball to the shoulder who was 

carried off all but dead to York

There is an small but interesting museum inside the Great Hall, much of the exhibition is devoted to the siege.

A mortar grenado, excavated at Helmsley

Local tradition has it that Whorlton Castle was garrisoned for the King, and besieged by Parliament. What remains of the gatehouse does appear to show cannon damage.

Whorlton Castle gatehouse

The castle is on private land, and in a very ruinous state (it is on Historic England’s at risk register). Don’t be tempted to take a sneaky jump over the wall to investigate more closely, bits of the gatehouse may well end up on your head.

Mulgrave Castle

Mulgrave Castle, located on Mulgrave Estate, occasionally opens for visitors see the Mulgrave Estate website for further information. It was garrisoned for the King by Captain Seaward, who surrendered the site in 1645. The castle would be slighted in 1647.

Whitby was Fairfax recruiting ground. Captain Browne Bushell was a Parliamentarian naval officer, cousin to Sir Hugh Cholmley (Scarborough Castle’s governor) who took  Scarborough Castle bloodlessly whilst Sir Hugh was away in York in 1643. On Sir Hugh’s return he not only convinced Browne to return the Castle, but also to defect to the Royalists. He would be executed for treason in 1651. His home in Whitby Bagdale Hall bears a blue plaque.

Scarborough Castle

In September 1642 a local gentleman, Sir Hugh Cholmley, was commissioned to hold Scarborough for Parliament, but he was soon persuaded to defect to the Royalists in March 1643 along with his 2000 strong garrison. His cousin (see above) retaking the Castle for Parliament, then he too defected to the Royalists. Parliament besieged the town in February 1644, Cholmley established gun batteries at Peasholm and St Mary’s Church.

The town took a battering from Sir John Meldrum’s Parliamentarian artillery: the protracted siege turning the townspeople against Cholmley, at one point local women stoned Sir Hugh for the devastation that he had brought upon the town.

Inside the keep

On the 18th February 1644 the Royalists retreated into Scarborough Castle, Parliament establishing a gun battery at St Mary’s; three days of barrage all but destroying the keep.

But all did not go completely in Parliament’s favour. Sir John Meldrum survived falling 200 feet off the cliff, his cloak acting like a parachute. Alas lady Luck quickly deserted Sir John as he was shot in the ‘cods’ (gentleman’s private area, in case you were wondering) shortly after, dying of his wounds a few days later.

Sir Hugh would eventually surrender the Castle on the 22nd July 1645; defenders of the gatehouse having to be dug out of their position. Wounds and scurvy had decimated the garrison, with only 25 men marching out of the Castle on the 25th.

On the 8th August 1648, the Castle’s governor Matthew Boynton would declare for the King, and the Castle and garrison would again be besieged by Parliament. They would surrender the Castle to Captain Bethell on the 15th December due to lack of supplies, illness, and the fact that the walls had already been breached and undermined. The west wall would be slighted by order of Parliament in 1649.

Cared for by English Heritage, if your lungs and legs survive walking up to the Castle you’ll find a small gift shop, café, ice cream and the large ruined site.

St Mary's

Nearby St Mary’s has extensive ruins caused by artillery fire from the first siege. 

In amongst the chip shops, ice cream booths, and amusement arcades down on Quay Street there are a number of timber framed buildings that survived the siege.

Newburgh Priory stands on the site of a 12th century Augustinian priory. After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the site of the priory was sold to Anthony de Bellasis, who built a Tudor manor house. Newburgh Priory is reputed to be the resting place of Oliver Cromwell.

In 1661, Oliver Cromwell’s body was exhumed from Westminster Abbey, and it was subjected to a posthumous execution. His body was hung on display at Tyburn. His remains were eventually thrown into a pit, while his severed head was displayed on a pole outside Westminster hall until 1685. It is believed that Mary, Countess of Fauconberg (Cromwell’s daughter), used her influence to retrieve his remains and bring them back to Newburgh Priory.

Originally the stone tomb was incorporated into the roof, but alterations in that part of the house have raised the roofline and revealed the previously hidden tomb. The family has never allowed the tomb to be opened, so the contents are a mystery.

Postcodes for SatNavs

All Saints Church, Main Street, Ripley HG3 3AD

Ripley Castle HG3 3AY

St John the Baptist, Knaresborough HG5 9AE

Holy Trinity, Gracious Street, Knaresborough HG5 8BQ

Tadcaster Castle LS24 9BL

Cawood Castle Gatehouse, Cawood YO8 3SG

Bolton Castle, near Leyburn DL8 4ET

Buttercrambe Castle, Buttercrambe YO41 1XU

Burton Fleming Manor, Mill Road, Burton Fleming YO25 3PS

Crayke Castle, Crayke Lane, Crayke YO61 4TA

Old Malton, Town Street, Malton YO17 7HD

Upsall Castle Farm, Upsall, Thirsk YO7 2QJ

Middleham Castle, Castle Hill, Middleham DL8 4QG

Helmsley Castle, Castlegate, Helmsley YO62 5AB

Whorlton Castle, Castle Bank, Northallerton DL6 3EA

Mulgrave Castle, Low Lane, Whitby YO21 3RJ

Bagdale Hall, 1 Bagdale, Whitby YO21 1QL

Scarborough Castle, Castle Road, Scarborough YO11 1HY

St Mary’s Church, Castle Road, Scarborough YO11 1HY

Quay Street, Scarborough YO11 1PL

Newburgh Priory, Coxwold, York YO61 4AS

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