Houses of Interest: Monmouthshire

The inappropriately named ECWtravelogue returns across the border into Wales, this time dipping its toe into Monmouthshire.

The entrance way to Chepstow Castle

Chepstow was an important trade route on the River Wye, and into the Welsh Marches. Understandably the stronghold of Chepstow Castle dominates the river, towering over the river, situated on top of the cliffs.

Chepstow looming over the Wye

During the First Civil War the castle was surrendered to Waller's Parliamentarian forces who had surrounded the castle (but never really besieged it) for two years, in autumn 1645.

With the resumption of war, Chepstow was again garrisoned for the King by Sir Nicholas Kemeys.This time the Parliamentarian besiegers were a little more proactive, and successful. Their artillery shot away the castle's parapets, inhibiting the defenders from mounting their guns. The Parliamentarian artillery breached the castle walls near Marten's Tower, Kemeys refused to surrender and the Parliamentarians, led by Colonel Ewer were forced to storm the castle via the breach. Kemeys and the majority of the garrison (120 men) were slain.

Memorial to Kemeys, in the castle's keep.

Parliament order the refortification of the castle between 1650-62. The southern curtain walls were strengthened (to take artillery fire), and loops were added for muskets. Marten's Tower was given circular gun-loops, and two towers were filled with earth in order to act as gun platforms.

The remains of one of the gunports on the southern wall

...and what it would have looked like

Chepstow would be used as a political prison. Two of its notable unwilling residents were Bishop Jeremy Taylor; and, after the Restoration of the monarchy, the regicide Henry Marten.

Bishop Taylor was captured at Cardigan Castle in 1645, along with a number of Royalist supporters. During the Interregnum he would be imprisoned three times, including in Chepstow Castle, from May to October 1655. Alas, we don't know the charge for his Chepstow incarceration.

Marten's Tower

Henry Marten's stay was much longer: he was spared the death penalty at his trial in 1660, instead being sent to internal exile. Initially this was in the north of England, then to Windsor Castle in 1665. This physical proximity to Charles II, irked the King so much that he sent him to Chepstow in 1668.

Marten's Tower from the parapets

Marten's imprisonment does not appear to have been too unpleasant, at least at first; he had a suite of rooms in what is now known as Marten's Tower, and seems to have been able to travel outside the castle on occasion. 

His wife Margaret lived apart from him, remaining at the family home in Berkshire, but he was attended there by Mary Ward, his common-law wife. Marten died at Chepstow Castle on 9th September 1680, having choked while eating his supper.

Close to the entrance to the car park that serves the castle, is Cromwell House. Old Knoll is reputed to have slept here when visiting the newly taken castle in 1648.

Marten would be buried in the chancel of The Priory Church of Saint Mary, but his body would be moved on the orders of the new vicar, Rev Thomas Chest in 1702, to a 'passage leading from the nave into the north aisle, nearly opposite the reading desk'. A memorial stone near the front door was replaced in 1768, and again in 1812 (by the present stone). This stone, too is badly worn, and is now protected by a rug.

This once grand sideboard was in the choir of Gloucester Cathedral during the Civil Wars, but was sold to Bristol Cathedral in 1663. Eventually its travels ended at St Mary's Chepstow.

Part of the original memorial stone is on display at Chepstow Museum, along with a fine portrait of Marten.

Beachley, viewed from the Severn Bridge

Nearby Beachley (technically in Gloucestershire I know, but it makes more sense to be included with Chepstow), was garrisoned by the Royalists; it is believed a gun battery was positioned here in order to protect Royalist supplies heading up the Severn and the Wye. The natural isthmus has its 'neck' protected by Offa's Dyke. Despite this seemingly secure position, they were routed twice from this position in 1644.

Monmouth Castle

Monmouth Castle  changed hands twice in autumn 1644. In 1645 a strong Parliamentarian army, numbering 3000 men, led by the Governor of Gloucester, Colonel Morgan; besieged the town and castle. They undermined the Great Tower, but the garrison surrendered before the besiegers could blow the mine.

The garrison would surrender seven artillery pieces, a large number of muskets and powder, as well as great stores of food.

On 1st March 1647, the House of Commons decided

"That the Town and Castle of Monmouth be disgarisoned, and the Works slighted"

The slighting process was organised by Colonel Kyrle. The Round Tower being demolished when the townspeople were in church. The slighting would continue for some months.

The castle ruins are free to visit, adjacent to the ruins is the The Royal Monmouthshire Royal Engineers museum, the regiment tracing its foundation back to the Monmouth Trained Band.

The Queen's Head

Oliver Cromwell visited Monmouth in 1646, staying at The Queens Head. A would be assassin fired and missed his target, and attempted to flee through the pub. He would be shot dead by pistol.

The King's Head

The King's Head, was supposedly visited by King Charles. Although its history seems a little confused, was it Charles I or (the future) Charles II who visited? Did the visit take place in 1625 or 1645? The story changes depending upon the source: is this a case of wishful thinking or just misremembering?

It is certainly a seventeenth century building, and features a plaster relief of Carolus Rex inside (dated 1673), although nobody knows if it is supposed to be Carolus Rex I or II, or even an amalgam of the two.

Monmouth Museum is currently relocating to Shire Hall, and currently has a small display of its collection on view. Most notable, amongst its collection, and on display is a sixteenth century Monmouth Cap.

There are a number of contemporaneous buildings, and structures that will have witnessed the events of the Wars.

Most notable is the Monnow Bridge, a medieval gated bridge. The bridge now protects access to Waitrose from ruffians.

The Robin Hood

Close to the bridge is the Robin Hood Inn, a much older building that has many seventeenth century features preserved inside.

Near the Museum is 1 Agincourt Square, a well preserved seventeenth century house, now being utilised as a charity shop.

Postcodes for SatNavs
Chepstow Castle, Bridge Street NP16 5EY
Cromwell House, 10 Bridge Street NP16 5EZ
Chepstow Museum Bridge Street NP16 5EZ
Priory Church of Saint Mary, Upper Church Street NP16 5HA

Beachley, Beachley Road NP16 5DY

Monmouth Castle, Castle Hill NP25 3BS

The Queens Head, 1 St James Street NP25 3DL

The Kings Head, 8 Agincourt SquareNP25 3DY 

Monmouth Museum, Shire Hall, Agincourt Square NP25 3DY

Monnow Bridge, Monnow Street NP25 3EG

Robin Hood Inn, 124 Monnow Street NP25 3EQ

1 Agincourt Square NP25 3BT

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